- #MANUAL FOCUS NIKON F6 SERIAL NUMBER#
- #MANUAL FOCUS NIKON F6 MANUAL#
- #MANUAL FOCUS NIKON F6 UPGRADE#
I’m not sure if that’s a good or bad thing,…never happened to me. If your shutter speed erred to the point of affecting exposure, the camera would stop firing. (F4s was 5.7 fps, the F5 8 fps) The coolest thing about the F5 was something you couldn’t see, A self-testing and self-correcting shutter. FPS – Important? Eh…Īlso, FPS is much faster on the F5. But then I wasn’t taking images of bullets in mid-flight. Did I ever avail myself of these features? No. And the F5 did have built in exposure bracketing, the ability to be computer controlled and download info through Nikon’s Photo Secretary. But in retrospect, the F4s did the job just fine.
#MANUAL FOCUS NIKON F6 MANUAL#
In fact, the reason I upgraded to the F5 in 1997, ($2000+), was I saw Ellen von Unwerth using it with a manual focus 50mm f/1.2 lens at Pastis, (the restaurant on 9th Ave near my apartment on Horatio), and like the typical young know-nothing photographer I was, I had to have one. So I can’t really say the F5 is better there. You’re either in focus and have proper exposure, or not. I’m sure the “3D” and “D” autofocus lenses mean something to somebody, but Nikon never convinced me. Maybe I just haven’t taken enough backlit images,…or whatever. You can’t really improve on “spot on” exposure. However,…I haven’t found one to be more accurate than the other. More sophisticated, and much closer to what’s used in Nikon digital cameras. While the F4s has Matrix metering, and will even Matrix meter with manual focus lenses, the F5 has “3D Matrix” metering.
#MANUAL FOCUS NIKON F6 SERIAL NUMBER#
Late Serial Number F4 with locking hole in hotshoe.
If you count on “dynamic” or “continuous” focusing, the F5 is better. Since to this day I only use the center focus point then recompose, (even in digital), extra focus points mean nothing to me. (and F100) Viewfinders? Both 100%, but the F5 is brighter. If your other camera is a D3, or even D800, you’ll find the “LCD’ and and “joystick” location/layout pretty damn close. The only difference being that it’s autofocus. If you switch back and forth between an FM or F3 type camera, you’ll probably find the F4 the closest in layout, including dials and knobs. The Nikon F4s configuration vs the Nikon F5 are pretty close in size and weight.į4s =169mm x 157mm x 77mm (6.7 x 6.2 x 3.0 in.) 1,280g (45.1 oz.)į5 = 158mm x 149mm x 79 mm (6.2 x 5.9 x 3.1 in.) 1,210g (42.7 oz)Īs you can see, they’re so close that I never found much difference in actual use. Most photographers who prefer the F4 is because of the ability to use the MB-20 pack, making it much smaller and lighter.
But it’s good to know you have the option,…I guess. The advantage of the Nikon F4s using pre-AI lenses was also not an advantage to me, since I have no pre-AI glass. That said, I’ve never felt deprived in any way using the F4s. But for most shooters, that probably wouldn’t be an issue.
#MANUAL FOCUS NIKON F6 UPGRADE#
That said, everything else is an upgrade in the F5, and I haven’t found anyone else with that issue. However, they were used extensively, and in sometimes less than ideal conditions. ? And I’m sure you can get them recovered. Probably because I’m a “greasy” Sicilian. While it felt great, (the skin), and was wonderful when holding, for some reason it would separate from the body and bubble. (and a Rollei 6008/6006) But I switched back to the F4s for one reason only I had to have both of my F5’s recovered. I shot with a Nikon F5 mostly from 1997 to about 2000. First, let me start with full disclosure.